DOI: 10.7256/2454-0757.2023.4.39779

Abstract: The culture of traditional clothing and jewelry is an integral part of the ancient Chinese civilization. Chinese traditional costume is distinguished by its rich content, relevance at any time, as well as its unique features. Traditional clothing was influenced by successive millennial dynasties that brought the chaos of war. Traditional Chinese clothing has not only become the embodiment of the Chinese concepts of "the unity of Heaven and man", "the ritual of respect for nature and harmonious coexistence with nature", but also a visual representation of the cultural characteristics of different dynasties and the level of development of production. Chinese traditional costume carries the thinking of many Chinese philosophical teachings and schools, reflects the clash and synthesis of agrarian and nomadic cultures of different regions of China. The value of culture carried by the Chinese traditional costume goes beyond the costume itself, it reflects both the social hierarchy, and the peculiarities of society management, and the national spirit. In this article, based on the objective and subjective conditions of the formation of the culture of Chinese costume and accessories, on the basis of ornaments, patterns, colors of garments, as well as on the example of the Shenyi robe that violated previous traditions, the features of the embodiment of Chinese traditional cultural values in clothing are considered.

DOI: 10.7256/2454-0757.2023.3.39914

Abstract: Chinese traditional costume is one of the important carriers of Chinese culture. The process of the emergence and development of the culture of traditional Chinese costume also reflects the cultural background and evolution of ancient Chinese society. In the context of the strengthening of the Chinese economy, the inheritance and development of Chinese clothing culture is of great importance for modern society. The epochs of Wei, Jin, Southern and Northern dynasties are a period of Chinese history marked by frequent wars, ethnic integration and convergence of various ideas. Against this background, there was a weakening of the Confucian "ritual" style, followed by the spread of the teachings of Xuan Xue, Buddhism and Taoism, and a freer, down-to-earth, elegant clothing culture appeared. This article consists of the following three parts: Diversity of social background; Artistic forms of costume culture of the Wei-Jin eras; Modern trends in the development of clothing culture. Based, among other things, on such material as the scroll painting "The Fairy of the Lo River" by the artist Gu Kaizhi of the Eastern Jin Dynasty, this article analyzes the influence of the teachings of Xuan-xue, Buddhism and Taoism on the costume of the Wei and Jin dynasties, illustrates the direction of development of modern Chinese costume culture, and continued the path for the development of clothing culture with Chinese specifics.