DOI: 10.25136/2409-8744.2023.3.40553

Abstract: This article presents the experience of studying the unique nakosnik of Moksha puloker women, which existed from the VIII to the XVIII centuries in a traditional women's costume as an ethnic symbol of the people. The most important aspects of the characteristics of the hairpiece associated with determining the cause of the appearance of this artifact, revealing the general attitude to hair in traditional culture, in particular in the heroic epic of the Mordovian people "Mastorava", which reflects the events of the medieval history of the ethnos; the nature of the era that caused the appearance of new elements in the folk costume. Both general scientific methods and systematic, comparative-historical and structural-semiotic approaches were used in the study. The role of the crisis factor in the culture of the Mordovian tribes of the second half of the I millennium A.D. was revealed, manifested in the activation of human activity aimed at adaptation in conditions of rapid changes and intercultural contacts. It is established that the result of the creative work of women, forcibly limited by the space of the family and home (possibly due to the appearance of a small family), was the development of socio-economic and cultural processes related to the ritual sphere, which required the segregation of the married woman's social group and a new element of the headdress, which emphasized the status of the hostess of the house. The novelty of the research is determined by the conclusions about the values of culture embodied in the materialization of the goals of collective activity in the form of an artificially created form of decoration, as well as in the justification of the significant influence of the Turkic peoples on the development of culture in the period under consideration.

DOI: 10.7256/2454-0625.2021.7.36111

Abstract: This article trace the origins of using permanent metal jewelry in traditional clothing of the Mordovian people, as well as characterizes the role of metal products in culture. From the perspective of the currently popular brocade, sparkling fabrics, it seems relevant to refer to the domestic tradition of costume embroidery with metal pendants, beads, pearls that shine in the sun, and to the analysis of peculiarities of of Erzya and Moksha embroidery of the XIX – early XX centuries, known for simple but very effective methods of decorating female costume. The novelty of this work is defined by the absence of special research dedicated to permanent metal décor of the Mordovian costume; the need to determine the ratio between natural and synthetic materials used in embroidery; their interrelation with the traditional norms and aesthetic preferences of the Mordovian people. The object of this research is the traditional Mordovian costume, while the subject is the specificity of including small metal items (pendants, beads, pearls) into embroidery of the elements of festive and ritual clothes of the XIX – early XX centuries. The goal consists in analysis of the tradition of using metal items in embroidery, as well as in cognition of the meanings of this material in folk culture. Analysis is conducted on the new archaeological and ethnographic sources, archival materials on the history of culture and art of the Mordovian region. The author highlights and characterizes various techniques of using sequins in the Moksha and Erzya embroidery of the XIX – early XX centuries, which testify to the complexity of ethnogenesis of the Mordovian people.

DOI: 10.25136/2409-8744.2021.4.36337

Abstract: This article describes the uniqueness of the local version of traditional clothing of Moksha women who in the mid XIX century resided in the rural localities of Levzha, Perkhlyay, and Suzgarye in the Insar district of the Penza province. The characteristic attributes of women's costume of this period are reflected in the written sources of the Russian Geographical Society. The relevance of this research is defined by the absence of special works on the topic, as well as by the attempt to reconstruct the elements of traditional clothes of the mid  XIX century, which is the first time period used for mapping material culture of the Mordvinian people. The object of this research is the traditional costume of the Mordvinian women; while the subject is the local peculiarities of Moksha women’s costume of the Insar district of Penza province of the mid XIX century, which was characterized by silhouette of the shirt, original style of its wearing with a set of belt ornaments-pendants and loincloth. The goal of this research consists in the analysis of the local peculiarities of Mordvinian (Moksha) women's costume of the mid XIX century and its transformations until the early XX century. The novelty lies in the use previously unpublished handwritten materials of Russian Geographical Society are valuable for reconstructing the historical costume of Moksha women. It is established that in the traditional women’s costume of this territory was a unique phenomenon of material culture, resembling the complex processes of ethnogenesis of the Mordvinian people, hardworking nature of women, results of their creativity, and the national aesthetic canon. The article describes the style of wearing women's blouses shirt. The combination of basic elements of the local complex (shirt and lower waist clothing) allowed the women to wear a short version of the shirt, which did not constrain them in movement or physical work.

DOI: 10.25136/2409-8744.2020.2.32553

Abstract: The subject of this research is the traditional fur costume of the Mordvins. The authors examine the problem of formation of the semantics of fur as a material useful for survival and adaptation of a person in space. The goal of this work consists in determination of the factors substantiating semantic meanings of the transformation processes of natural material into a cultural object characteristic for many peoples of the Middle Volga  and Transural regions. The authors summarized the written sources. Including the archive of Russian Geographical Society, analysis of ethnographic collections of museums of the Republic of Mordovia, and results of the field research. The application of general scientific methods (analysis, synthesis, classification), comparative-historical approach, and comprehensive culturological approach allowed detecting the peculiarities of Mordvins’ perception of fur items, their implementation into the sphere of spiritual culture, and attribution as a symbol. The scientific novelty consists in the culturological approach towards understanding of the semantic of fur garments and accessories in the everyday culture and family ceremonies of the Mordvins. Substantiation is made on the special significance of fur in the material culture of the Erzya and Moksha peoples: fulfilling a utilitarian function and having become the second, artificial skin of a human, fur adequately protected from unfavorable effects of the environment. It is established that in Erzya language there are still remain similarities between the concepts of fur coat (fur item, animal skin) and clothes.

DOI: 10.25136/2409-868X.2019.2.28920

Abstract: The object of this publication is the activity of the prominent Finno-Ugric expert, ethnographer M. T. Markelov (1899-1937), which was forcibly interrupted during the times of personality cult. The subject of this research is the little-studied Tomsk period of life and creative path of the Mordovian scholar. The goal of this work lies in introduction into the scientific discourse of the new materials from I. D. Voronin United Museum of Regional Studies of the Republic of Mordovia, which allows to fully comprehend the theoretical and practical importance of the activity of M. T. Markelov for the modern stage of development of Finno-Ugrian studies. It is established that M. T. Markelov was a pioneer of the Mordavian ethnographic science. His resilient character allowed staying socially active and cheerful person and engaged scientist: even being monitored, he continued his scientific activity as a Docent at the Tomsk State University, an acting director of the museum of ethnology and archeology, read the lecture on the “History of the Peoples of USSR”, “Ethnography of USSR”, etc., collected materials on the topic “History of Siberian Colonization”, wrote a dissertation. Examination of the materials from M. T. Markelov’s personal archive testifies to their high historiographical value; reveals new facts of the creative, scientific and pedagogical activity of the scholar in exile. The author also underlines the role of E. V.  Derviz and N. Y. Simonovich-Efimova in the life of M. T. Markelov.

DOI: 10.7256/2454-0625.2018.12.28482

Abstract: The subject of the research is the functions of Mordovian traditional costume in their everyday life. Shigurova analyzes the stages of the traditional costume getting closer not only to the body but also to the soul of human and step-by-step development of additional meaning and cultural functions. The main source of the research is the materials of the Russian Geographical Society as well as folklore of the Mordovian people. The author's analysis of Mordovian traditional costume from the point of view of its social functions brings the focus to human as a creator and bearer of costume which allows to analyze one's attitude to clothing and particular elements thereof. In her research Shigurova has applied general reseaerch methods based on the information semiotic approach to analyzing the cultural phenomenon which allows to observe which elements of the traditional costume gain meaning in the process of their creation. The novelty of the research is caused by the fact that the author defines Mordovian traditional costume as a result of creative activity of needlework mistresses reorganized into an item due to attentive observation and evaluation of the society. Complex socio-cultural processes reflect in the mentality of an ethnos, proverbs and stayings that describe the most important values of human.