Статья 'Костюм и мода как воплощение гендерных трансформаций' - журнал 'Человек и культура' - NotaBene.ru
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Man and Culture

Costume and fashion as the embodiment of gender transformations

Gerasimova Yuliya

Docent, the department of Costume Design, Omsk State Technical University

644043, Russia, Omskaya oblast', g. Omsk, ul. Krasnogvardeiskaya, 9, korp. 1, of. 325

Sosnina Natalia

Docent, the department of Costume Design, Omsk State Technical University

644043, Russia, Omskaya oblast', g. Omsk, ul. Krasnogvardeiskaya, 9, of. 325




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Abstract: The subject of this research is the processes of gender transformation and their embodiment in costume and fashion. The article examines the traits of femininity and masculinity, as well as their manifestation on the male and female costume during various period of fashion development throughout the late XIX and XX centuries. Particular attention is given to the analysis of the impact of political, economic and sociocultural transformations in society, as well as scientific and technological discoveries upon the appearance of new styles and trends in costume that reflect the gender shifts in the society: unisex, grunge, minimalism, deconstructivism. The author applies the general scientific methods based on the comprehensive culturological approach, which allows determining the consistencies of the influence of global changes in society on the gender transformations through the prism of costume and fashion. As a result, the author generalized and structuralized the types and stages of gender transformations that were embodied in costume. The process of gender transformations in costume is not a new phenomenon. The first manifestations of the effect of gender transformations on costume took place during the World War I; and over the course of a century, this process is one of the driving forces of fashion industry. The accent shifts from male costume to female, depending on the social changes of one or another period. The generalizing became the invented in 1960’s trend of agender clothing, which makes to reconsider the gender function of costume even today. The research materials can be valuable in scientific and pedagogical work.  

Keywords: agender fashion, fashion, gender roles, gender, masculinity, femininity, costume, unisex, dimorphism, transformation
This article written in Russian. You can find full text of article in Russian here .

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