Статья '"Революция" в сфере моды: предыстория феномена "кутюрье"' - журнал 'Genesis: исторические исследования' - NotaBene.ru
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Genesis: Historical research

“Revolution” in fashion industry: history of the phenomenon of “couturier”

Gurianova Mariya

post-graduate student of the Department of History and Theory of World Cultures at Lomonosov Moscow State University

119991, Russia, Moscow, str. Lomonosovsky Prospect, 27, bld .4

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In the late XIX century, the emergence of the persona of Charles Frederick Worth signified somewhat a “revolution” in fashion industry, changing its concept through putting to the forefront the persona of the designer, rather than a dress wearer. Up to the late XVIII century, the authorship of innovations was appointed upon the bright individuals (the powerful persons) who demonstrated them, but not who stood behind its creation. As a profession, the design of fashionable novelties, which founder was C. F. Worth, transformed the clothing manufacturing industry from the craft activity at the service of high officials, to a creative act inherent only to couturier. Such shift of accents regarding the identification of a fashionable novelty from the wearer to manufacturer was significantly associated with “switching” of the costume’s semantics under the influence of French Revolution, after which fashion became perceived as platform for self-expression”, and the dress turned into an important symbol of taste and individual differences. Namely the discourse that a fashionable product is an expression of individual taste in many ways contributed to putting clothing designers to the forefront, as it was also enhanced by the reorganization of guild system in the late XVIII century.

Keywords: tailor, mercer, milliner, guid, couturier, individual taste, fashion, bourgeoisie, costume, novelty
This article written in Russian. You can find full text of article in Russian here .

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