Статья 'Традиционная одежда русского старожильческого населения Обь-Иртышского Севера (вторая половина XIX - начало XX вв.)' - журнал 'Человек и культура' - NotaBene.ru
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Man and Culture
Reference:

Traditional costume of the Starozhily of Ob-Irtysh North (late XIX – early XX century)

Evseev Valerii Nikolaevich

Doctor of Philology

Professor, the department of Architecture and Design, Tyumen Industrial University

625000, Russia, g. Tyumen', ul. Volodarskogo, 38, of. 109

evseev54@mail.ru
Makasheva Saltanat Zholdasbekovna

Doctor of Philology

Professor, the department of Intercultural Communication, Tyumen Industrial University

62500, Russia, g. Tyumen', ul. Volodarskogo, 38, of. 109

makascheva@mail.ru

DOI:

10.25136/2409-8744.2019.2.28172

Review date:

28-11-2018


Publish date:

16-05-2019


Abstract.

The subject of this research is the traditional costume of the descendants of the Russian Settlers of Eastern Siberia – Starozhily, namely Ob-Irtysh North, which elements have been formed for over three hundred years by the XIX century. The author examines such factors of development of the festive and casual, female and male clothing as the natural and climatic peculiarities, elements of other ethnic groups emerging in a certain environment and substantiated by the communication with other indigenous peoples of Ob North, as well as the influence of fashion at the turn of the XIX – XX centuries. Based on the historical-typological method, the author applies systemic approach towards the description of traditional elements and specificities of costume of the Starozhily of Ob-Irtysh North, verifying with the reference to the studies of experts of everyday life and culture of the population of Ob North of this time. Folk clothing of the Starozhily of the Northwestern part of Trans-Urals inherited mostly the traditions of Northern Russian type of clothing, retaining the national elements of casual and festive garments. Casual and work clothing was greatly influence by the costume of indigenous peoples of the region, mostly it regards to winter clothing of indigenous communities, which generated a mixed (polyethnic) type of winter clothing of the Starozhily. The ceremonial costume did not undergo any transformations. Festive garments retained national traditions; however, at the turn of the centuries it was losing the distinct national attributes. The cause lied in the new realities of life and culture: polyethnic composition of regional population, fashion dictate (in clothing), variety of imported clothes at the northern market, as well as the ability to choose manufactured clothes.

Keywords: muzhskaya odezhda, nacional'nyj kostyum, tradicionnaya odezhda, starozhily, russkie, XIX vek, Ob'-Irtyshskij Sever, zhenskaya odezhda, obuv, ehlementy odezhdy
This article written in Russian. You can find full text of article in Russian here .

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