DOI: 10.7256/2454-0609.2019.5.29774

Abstract: The focus of this article is placed on the literary magazine Rubezh, published in Harbin from 1926 to 1945. The article's aim is to determine the value of this publication as a source on the history of the development of the global fashion industry in the 1930s - 1940s. In order to achieve the set goal, the author analyzes a wide range of publications by the Rubezh devoted to fashion topics (articles on men's and women's fashion with illustrations and photographs; tips on needlework, makeup, face and body care, etc.; advertisements of manufacturers and traders of clothing and accessories) by identifying the relationships between fashion trends and the socio-political and economic processes of this period. The article pays particular attention to the study of the fashion industry in Harbin in the context of examining the anthropology of Russian diaspora's fashion. To obtain the most objective and representative research results, the author relied on the methods of historicism, objectivity, integrity, and comparative analysis while conducting this research. The scientific novelty of this article lies in the fact that, for the first time in historiography, a comprehensive analysis of the émigré magazine "Rubezh" has been conducted, considering it as a source on the history of fashion in general, and on the anthropology of Russian diaspora in particular. During the course of this work, the author came to the conclusion that the materials of Rubezh help to recreate a retrospective picture of the development of the global fashion industry in the 1930s - 1940s. and serve as a serious aid in the study of the unique socio-cultural phenomenon of Russian Harbin.

DOI: 10.25136/2409-8744.2019.2.29113

Abstract: The focus of attention in this research is the contribution of the representatives of Russian émigré to the development fashion industry in France during 1920’s – 1940’s. Despite the increasing public interest towards the history of white émigré of the “first post-revolutionary wave” overall, as well as the activity of its representatives with regards to fashion industry in particular, this problematic remains insufficiently studied within historiography. Using the synthesis of macro- and micro-approaches towards studying history, the author analyzes the impact of the key political, economic, and social processes of this period upon fashion industry, as well as modeling. Moreover, the author applies the comparative and systemic methods of historical analysis, which on the example of careers of the leading immigrant models, allowed determining the role of Russian émigrés in the French modeling industry throughout 1920’s, 1930’s and 1940’s. The conducted research reveals interconnection between the changes in modeling business and the activity of Russian émigrés. It is concluded that the Russian models were highly demanded among the top French Fashion Houses, and certainly exerted significant influence on the establishment of aesthetic ideals of the fashion world of 1920’s – 1940’s.