DOI: 10.7256/2454-0625.2018.4.26010

Abstract: In her research Kanokova examines different kinds of traditional female headgear of the Nogais used by all Nogai ethnographic groups since the 14th (creation of the Nogai Horde) till the 20th century (the final stage of the development of the national Nogai female costume). The author of the article describes their sign function. By carrying out an integral analysis of the research objects, the author studies their stylistics, manifacturing technique, decoration technique, and relation to customs and religious concepts. This allows to define the infant, maiden, wedding and grown-up female headwear. Due to the insufficient study of the matter, the author has also used the method of field ethnography besides general and special cultural and art historical methods. The novelty of the research is caused by the fact that the author discovers and carries out an integral analysis of a wide range of female headgear kinds described or recorded in written or graphic sources and held in museum or private collections of regions where Nogai ethnographic groups live. For the first time in the academic literature the author defines local particularities and general features that define Nogai headgear as an individual type of headwear. 

DOI: 10.7256/2409-8744.2017.1.21521

Abstract: The subject of this research is the complex of male and female traditional costume of Nogais, which reflects the characteristic features of nomadic or sedentary lifestyle of the ethnos. Currently, the examined question is insufficiently studied; it is practically not represented in museums or national life, and the main visual material consists in sketches and impressions of the travelers, as well as photo images of the XVIII-XX centuries. This research is conducted for closing such gap. The work applies the general and specific methods of culturological and art review; the method of field ethnography is used due to the disperse dwelling of the Nogais. This article is first to determine not just the local peculiarities, but also common features that characterize the Nogai costume as an integral and monumental phenomenon that has common constructive and compositional system. This research is called to acquire further development in reconstruction of costumes for the museum collections and stage variations.

DOI: 10.7256/2409-8744.2017.1.21539

Abstract:   The subject of this research is the sculptural and visual solutions of the stone-carved stelas of the Nogais in form of the tombstones. Carved headstones of anthropomorphic and stela forms were decorated with calligraphic carve, geometrical and floral ornaments, trine emblems “tamga”, with abundance of the Islamic symbols and subject compositions. The anthropomorphic headstones have the silhouettes of the traditional male headgear of Nogai people, while the subject compositions consists of the realistic images of male and female appurtenances, clothes, and tools. The topic of the research is highly relevant and revealed from the various perspectives by the modern ethnographers, historians, and experts of Nogai culture. The question of gender affiliation of the stone-carved stelas remains open within the reviewed materials. This article is first to conduct classification in accordance with the gender affiliation, as well as carry out hermeneutical reading of the figurative elements. The main results of the work are aimed at elimination of the established gap.